Posts Tagged ‘fashion’

The gloves are off: how to wear gloves

Sunday, December 30th, 2012

Many years ago, to be seen without gloves would have been just too much for anyone to handle.  It would have been indecent to allow such a thing.  Today, gloves are being worn less and less by men and women.  The Queen is known for her almost constant use of gloves.  No outfit for Her Majesty is complete without gloves.  And this used to be the case for many women up until the swinging 1960s where attitudes to more or less everything relaxed – but not always for the better.

A good pair of gloves does more than keep hands warm and stave off chilblains – in my option, they complete an outfit.

For men, it is essential to have at least two pairs of gloves.  One pair in black and the other in brown.  The black gloves are to be worn in urban conurbations, and brown to be worn when in the country.  However when dressed casually in towns and cities, black gloves may appear too formal.  This is where a third pair of gloves can come into great use.  Navy!  And if a darker navy, they can be worn with black shoes and formal suit as well.  Yet they will also match a casual short overcoat and jeans perfectly.

Brown leather gloves from John LewisIt need not be said that a man’s gloves should be leather, lined with wool or silk.  Lambskin or suede for country-wear is really the only other alternative.  Knitted gloves are for young children.  We need not pass comment on fingerless gloves.

White gloves (cotton or goatskin) were once a staple of any man’s wardrobe – for evening wear – but with the changing times these have all but passed away from shops & wardrobes alike.

For women, the colour of the gloves should ideally complement the handbag and shoes.  They are usually made from leather or cotton.

In today’s fast-paced, casual world, women tend only to wear gloves when attending funerals or smart weddings.  A great shame, really.

Glove etiquette…

  • Men remove gloves to shake someone’s hand (although this is not required in very cold countries with extremely icy weather)
  • Women can shake hands without removing gloves
  • Men should remove gloves when indoors
  • A lady’s long evening gloves (for White Tie events) are removed when eating
  • Remove gloves by pulling up one finger at a time, rather than sliding off like a bracelet.

Suit You, Sir: How to care for your suits

Monday, April 16th, 2012

Following the Dutch answer to Keith Lemon and Dame Edna thrusting a choux bun in my face, which proceeded to drip onto my suit, I now have to take my suit to the dry cleaners to get the deep-set chocolate and cream stains out.

Yet, I am not an advocate of dry cleaners at all. They are expensive and unnecessary in most cases. I take my suits there once a year for a proper dry clean as taking them too often (as most people do) can cause the thread and material to wear quicker than if properly cared for.

Most dry cleaning of sweaters, cashmere and other ‘dry clean only’ garments can be done at home with the proper know-how. A lot of higher-end outfitters seem to only sell ‘dry clean only’ clothes – and this will just be to cover their backs should some laundry luddite ruin a new V-neck merino jersey.

But, back to suits. Here are my tips on how to care for your suits, making them last longer and saving your household those expensive dry cleaning bills.

  • Do not wear the same suit every day. Have two or three (or more) suits and alternate. If you wore a suit on Monday, leave it to hang properly on Tuesday before wearing again on Wednesday
  • Use proper suit hangers. It’s amazing how many wardrobes I see where perfectly nice suits are hung on shirt hangers (or, worse, wire hangers). Invest in proper wooden (or plastic) suit hangers, like these from John Lewis
  • If your wardrobe has the space, hang trousers separately on clamp hangers from the ‘cuffs’ (i.e., the bottom)
  • If your jacket has got creased after wearing, hang it up in the bathroom as you shower – making sure you shut the door and close windows so the room steams up. Depending on how long you’re in the shower and how much steams builds up, the creases should quickly ease away
  • Failing that, hang the suit with the back against the boiler in your airing cupboard overnight
  • However the best method of getting rid of creases from jackets and trousers is using a good steam iron. I have gone on at length before about the amazing Laurastar irons, but a good quality steam iron will enable you to quickly blast out any wrinkles and creases within seconds. Watch this video from Laurastar as to how their irons work wonders
  • If your suit gets stained, use a rinsed out cloth to try to remove the stain. Water and friction work best on most things and you should always try this method before resorting to dry-cleaning

 

A Crash Course in White Tie

Saturday, November 19th, 2011

Earlier this week the British Prime Minister David Cameron attended the Lord Mayor’s Banquet at the Mansion House in the City of London. This annual event carries with it an evening dress code that is fast falling out of vogue: White Tie. A few weeks ago I wrote about Black Tie, which is basically a bastardised version of White Tie.

But this little worn, and to some people – little known, dress code has its rules, just like any other. It used to be the standard dress for evening dinners in the age of Downton Abbey, as indeed we see on the hit costume drama. Black Tie then came in (from America) and the aristocracy decided that it was a lot less hassle to wear every evening than White Tie.

Lord Grantham from Downton Abbey

Working from top to bottom, the gentleman should wear…

Bow tie The clue is in the title of the dress code – a white bow tie (hand-tied) is correct. Make sure your hands are spotless before tying as the brilliant white of the tie will show every mark unforgivingly

Shirt A white, winged collar (sometimes detachable from the dress shirt) should adorn the top of the dress shirt, which should be fastened with studs. I have white mother of pearl studs for such an occasion. Cuffs should be double-cuffed (i.e. cufflinks)

Jacket The black (sometimes midnight blue) tailcoat is double-breasted although never fastened and should just show a hint of the white waistcoat beneath

Decorations These may be worn if the invitation decrees – always on the wearer’s left lapel

Waistcoat This is white, made from a pique cotton and is fastened

Trousers Black and tapered with two pieces of braid running down the side of each leg (unlike Black Tie trousers, which should have just one). They should be held in place with the aid of braces, not a belt

Socks Long black silk evening socks are preferable, although merino wool is an acceptable modern alternative

Shoes Patent black and Oxford-style

Unlike with Black Tie where one sometimes sees people trying to inject colour in the outfit, one should not even contemplate such a solecism with this dress code.

Ladies have some rules to follow, although the design, patterns and materials of their gowns will change with the fashions of the age. Dresses should be sweeping and to the floor, but hair should not be. This should be restrained to avoid knocking out dancing partners. Long white gloves should be worn at all times, except when dining. Tiaras may be worn if the occasion warrants them.